Sealing is the cheapest thing you can do to extend the life of concrete you already own. It slows water getting into the surface, resists de-icing salt and oil, and on decorative work it is what keeps the color from fading out. Plain grey concrete does not strictly need it. Stamped and colored concrete does.
| What changes | Effect on your price |
|---|---|
| Square footage | The single biggest driver. Work is priced per square foot, so measure before you call. |
| Surface type | Plain broom-finish concrete is the baseline. Stamped and colored work costs more, because it needs a product that protects the color rather than the cheapest sealer on the shelf. |
| Condition and prep | Sealing is mostly preparation. A clean sound slab seals cheaply. Oil stains, efflorescence or an old failing sealer that has to come off first all add to it. |
| Number of coats | Two coats is normal. High-traffic and heavily exposed surfaces want more. |
| Sealer type | A penetrating sealer and a film-forming sealer do different jobs and cost differently. The right one depends on whether you want the look changed or just the concrete protected. |
| How long it has been | New concrete cures about 28 days before its first seal, then wants resealing every 2 to 3 years in this climate. Leaving it far longer means paying for repair work instead of maintenance. |
Call or text with the rough size and what is there now. A photo of the space answers half the questions before anyone drives out.
Someone walks the job, measures it, checks access and drainage, and leaves you a written number. Free, and there is no pressure attached to it.
Once you approve the price the work gets scheduled around the weather window. You get a start date and a realistic finish date, not a vague week.
Sealers fall into two families that behave completely differently. Picking the wrong family for the surface is the most common and most expensive mistake in this category.
These soak into the concrete and work from inside the surface. They repel water and salt without forming a film, so they do not change the look, do not make the surface slippery, and cannot peel. They are the right answer for driveways, walkways and any exterior flatwork where you want protection and not a shine. They typically last several years between applications.
These sit on top and form a layer. They deepen color, add sheen and are what stamped and decorative concrete needs to look the way it did on day one. The tradeoffs are real: the film wears, it can get slippery when wet unless a grit additive is used, it needs reapplication on a shorter cycle, and when it eventually fails it has to be stripped rather than recoated.
Cycle length depends on the sealer, the exposure and the traffic more than on any number a contractor can promise. South facing and heavily driven surfaces come due sooner than shaded walkways. The practical test is water: when it stops beading and starts soaking in, the sealer is done working.
Same products, different reasons for buying them.
Most residential sealing is about freeze and thaw protection and about keeping oil and rust from staining a driveway. A penetrating sealer handles both without changing how the surface looks or feels. Decorative surfaces are the exception and need a topical product to keep their color.
Commercial sealing brings in liability and scheduling. A film forming sealer on a walked surface needs a slip resistant additive, and any application has to be planned around when the space can be closed. Cure windows are the constraint that decides commercial sealing dates, so they get booked around business hours rather than around the weather alone.
Sealing is a short job with a long dependency: the surface has to be genuinely clean and genuinely dry before anything is applied. Rushing either is the reason most sealer jobs fail, and the failure shows up as cloudiness or peeling rather than immediately.
The surface gets looked at for what it actually needs. A slab with open cracks or active spalling needs repair before sealer, because sealing over a defect just seals in the defect.
Dirt, oil, efflorescence and any failing previous sealer come off. If an old topical sealer is peeling, it has to be stripped rather than coated over. This is usually the longest part of the job.
Cracks get routed and filled, joints get resealed, spalled areas get patched. Patches need their own cure time before sealer goes over them.
The slab has to be dry all the way through, not just dry to the touch. Depending on the weather this is a day or more after washing. Sealing a damp slab is what produces a white haze that then has to be stripped.
Sealer goes on thin and even, usually in two light coats rather than one heavy one. Heavy application is the other main cause of cloudiness and of a surface that stays tacky.
Foot traffic after the manufacturer's recommended window, vehicles later. Both are product specific and both get given to you in writing.
This job is more weather sensitive than pouring. Sealer will not cure properly in the cold, will flash off too fast in direct summer heat, and cannot go down if rain is due inside the cure window. A sealing date that moves is a contractor protecting your finish, not a contractor being difficult.
Concrete Sealing & Maintenance across Winston-Salem, Kernersville, Walkertown, Rural Hall, Union Cross, Pfafftown, Clemmons, Lewisville, Stanleyville, Belews Creek, King, Germanton, Oak Ridge, Colfax, Summerfield, Stokesdale, Wallburg, Midway and Welcome.
Most jobs touch more than one of these. If you are already pricing concrete sealing & maintenance, it is usually worth pricing anything else you have been putting off in the same visit, because the mobilisation is already paid for.